Power Archive

What’s up with the Watts?business path choice

Choosing the right loudspeaker driver can feel like a minefield, especially if you’re new to PA sound. One of the most confusing areas is power ratings, usually quoted in watts.

To make matters worse, advances in materials and testing standards have seen many drivers increase their quoted power ratings by 25% or more, sometimes with no physical changes to the driver at all. Add in terms like RMS, Continuous, Program, and Peak power, and it’s no surprise there’s confusion.
This article mains to explain what those power ratings actually mean, clears up some common myths, and helps you choose sensible amplifier and speaker combinations.

Q: My amp is rated at 400W per channel. Will a 600W driver damage it by drawing too much power?

A: No. An amplifier’s power rating describes the maximum power it can deliver to a speaker before it reaches the limits of its power supply and begins to clip or distort. A loudspeaker’s power rating describes the maximum power it can safely absorb before overheating or failing.

Speakers do not “pull” power from an amplifier. Provided the impedance load is correct, a speaker cannot draw more power than the amplifier is capable of supplying.

Learn more about impedance and why it matters

Q: If I replace my 400W speakers with 450W speakers will they go louder?
A: Not necessarily. The limiting factor is usually the amplifier. If your amp is rated at 400W, you will not get more than 400W of clean output without distortion and potential amplifier damage. If your amplifier can deliver 450W, higher power handling may allow slightly higher output, but it may make no difference at all, and in some cases the speaker may even be quieter.
The key factor is efficiency. Some speakers convert electrical power into sound more effectively than others. If two speakers are operating at the same power level, the more efficient one will be louder. This is normally indicated by the sensitivity rating, measured in dB @ 1W / 1m.
Efficiency and Sensitivity

Q: Which power rating should I look at?

If you’re new to this, the most useful figure is the continuous power rating, usually specified using the AES standard. This gives a sensible indication of how much power a driver can handle of ‘continuous sound’ under realistic conditions and is the figure most manufacturers now quote.

You may also see a program or music power rating, which is typically around twice the AES rating. Peak power ratings are often quoted as four times the continuous rating and are of little practical use. If you see a peak figure, dividing it by four will usually give a reasonable idea of the true continuous power capability.

Q: What do the power ratings mean?

Continuous / “RMS” Power. Historically, loudspeaker power ratings were often quoted using continuous sine-wave tests, sometimes at a single frequency such as 1 kHz. These tests were easy to define and repeat, but they were not representative of real music and placed unusually high thermal stress on the voice coil.

The term “RMS power” is technically incorrect, as power itself does not have an RMS value; RMS applies to voltage or current. The RMS voltage is used in the power calculation, which is where the term originated. While RMS is useful for steady, resistive loads such as heaters or cable thermal calculations, it is not an ideal way to describe how loudspeakers behave with dynamic audio signals.

As a result, RMS power has largely been replaced by standardised noise-based tests that better represent music and broadband programme material, most notably the AES standard.

Over the years, manufacturers have used several recognised standards (a few still reference older ones):

  • IEC 268-5 (1978) – International Electrotechnical Commission
  • EIA RS-426-A (1980) – Electronic Industries Association
  • AES2-1984 – Audio Engineering Society
  • AES2-2012 – now the most widely adopted standard

When many manufacturers moved from the EIA standard to AES testing, some drivers saw power ratings increase by 25% or more without any physical design changes. One example we are aware of is a high-power 18″ driver that was re-rated from 600W to 800W purely as a result of the change in test method.

How is this possible? The AES standard defines a broadband pink noise signal with a specified crest factor for power testing, which differs from older methods. Many manufacturers implement the AES test using controlled noise over a defined period to stress the voice coil thermally, and this often results in higher quoted power figures compared to older standards. While the exact test duration and setup can vary by manufacturer, the AES rating provides a more consistent benchmark for comparing loudspeaker power handling.

Music / Program Power.

Often quoted as Program or Music power, this figure is typically defined as twice the continuous (AES or equivalent) power rating, representing a +3 dB increase. This does not mean the loudspeaker can handle twice the average power. Instead, program power allows for higher short-term peaks while the long-term average power remains the same as the continuous rating. In practical terms, this corresponds to a signal with a higher crest factor than the standard continuous test signal.

Real music contains peaks and valleys rather than a constant energy level. Program power reflects this by permitting greater instantaneous power during musical transients, provided the average power over time does not exceed the continuous rating. For system design, program power is best viewed as a headroom figure rather than a usable continuous operating level. Treating program power as a sustained power rating will almost certainly result in loudspeaker damage, however program power is useful for calculating amplifier power to get sufficient headroom. Opinions vary but most people suggest getting an amplifier slightly larger than AES power is a good start. If you want decent headroom, maybe aim halfway between AES Power and Program power – but at this point you have to start exercising caution with compressors and limiters to ensure the long term power rating does not get too high.

Peak Power:

This is the maximum very short-term power a driver can survive, and is typically quoted as four times the continuous (AES) power rating, representing a +6 dB increase. It exists almost entirely as a theoretical limit and has little relevance to real-world system design.

Peak power should not be used for amplifier matching, system sizing, or safe operating levels. Its primary practical use is for marketing, or for impressing someone who doesn’t know anything about sound.

Should I buy the most powerful speakers I can afford?

Probably not. It’s usually better to choose speakers that are appropriate for your amplifier power and intended use.

High power drivers are typically designed to survive large amounts of electrical and mechanical stress. This often involves design trade-offs such as heavier moving parts, longer voice coils, and suspensions optimised for high excursion. While these features increase power handling, they do not automatically increase efficiency.

As a result, a very high power driver is not necessarily louder at low or moderate power levels than a lower power driver with higher sensitivity. If you compare two extreme examples, such as a 100W driver and a 1000W driver, both driven from a 100W amplifier, the lower power driver may actually produce more output simply because it converts the available power into sound more efficiently.

The higher power driver only begins to show its advantage when sufficient power is available to drive it closer to its intended operating range. With a larger amplifier, it will ultimately produce far more output than the smaller driver ever could. However, when amplifier power is limited, choosing a driver with power handling far in excess of what the amplifier can deliver offers little benefit, and could be detrimental. Typically a 1000W woofer can be heavy and inefficient compared to a 200W woofer. On a smaller amp of 200W, the 200W woofer could actually play louder than the 1000W woofer which is inefficient.

In short, more watts on the specification sheet do not guarantee more sound. Sensitivity and appropriate system matching matter far more than headline power ratings.

So what if I exceed the power ratings?

You run the risk of overheating the voice coil and causing thermal failure. However, staying within the recommended power rating is not a guarantee of reliability.

Loudspeakers can also be damaged mechanically through excessive cone movement. This is described by excursion limits such as Xmax and Xlim. It is entirely possible to destroy a driver through over-excursion without ever exceeding its rated power, particularly at low frequencies or in poorly controlled enclosures.

There is also an important interaction between excursion, bandwidth, and cooling. In some situations a driver can reach its thermal limits at power levels well below its rated AES power.

For example, running a loudspeaker over a very narrow pass band (such as 30–40 Hz) in a cabinet tuned close to that frequency can result in extremely low cone excursion. While this may reduce mechanical stress, it also reduces air movement around the voice coil. Since many drivers rely partly on cone motion to aid cooling, limited excursion can significantly reduce heat dissipation.

In these conditions, particularly in small enclosures with restricted airflow, the usable thermal power handling may be substantially lower than the published AES rating. In extreme cases it can be closer to 50% of the rated value, despite excursion remaining well within safe limits.

What about Power Compression?

Power compression is the hidden problem that can upset even the best-planned systems and make published specifications feel misleading. Many manufacturers choose not to quote power compression figures at all, and some avoid mentioning it entirely.

Loudspeaker sensitivity is specified at 1 W measured at 1 m. At this very low power level, the voice coil remains cool and the driver is highly efficient at converting electrical energy into sound.

In real use, voice coils heat up. Most are wound with copper, which has a positive temperature coefficient of approximately 0.39% per degree Celsius. It is entirely possible for the voice coil of a high-power driver to reach temperatures approaching 200°C, resulting in a resistance increase of 50% or more.

As the voice coil resistance rises, the effective impedance of the driver increases. An 8 Ω loudspeaker may behave more like a 13–14 Ω load at high power. The amplifier delivers less current, acoustic output drops, and a significant proportion of the input power is lost as heat rather than sound.

The practical result is reduced output at high drive levels. A well-designed driver with good thermal management and low power compression can be 3–4 dB louder at full power than an otherwise similar driver that suffers heavily from compression. For this reason, modern high-quality designs place increasing emphasis on cooling and heat dissipation to minimise power compression.

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Power Compression

Posted By Andy Kos

When selecting speakers, it’s common for people to just look at maximum power handling, and many manufacturers make a point of specifying seemingly unbelievable power handling capacity of 1000W or more. Its quite rare for manufacturers to specify power compression though, and it seems to be often overlooked by system designers.

It seems that loudspeakers to handle what appear to be insanely high levels of power compared to 10 or 15 years ago. Has there been some amazing technological breakthrough? Do we need to re-write the physics text books? No, it’s still just basic physics – so what are the changes?

Firstly, modern materials used in the construction of voice coils are able to withstand significantly higher temperatures before failing.  Why is this important? Well Cone loudspeakers are in fact very inefficient, with even the best transducers only converting around 5% of the electrical energy supplied into sound, the majority of the remainder is converted into heat. So a 1000W bass speaker running at full power may well be converting only 50W into acoustic power, and 950W of heat. Thats like having a 1kw bar heater in your bassbin! That’s a lot of heat, which can cause big problems.

Aside from improving construction materials, manufacturers are also refining designs to maximise heat transfer away from the voice oil, this also contributes to the increases in power handling capacity we are experiencing.

What’s all this got to do with power compression?

Enabling speakers to handle much higher temperatures might seem a good thing, as it increases maximum power handling, but it also has a detrimental effect. Most voice coils are made from copper or aluminium wire, both of which have a positive temperature co-efficient of around 0.4% per °C. What’s the significance of that? You will have heard of superconductors, which operate at extremely low temperatures in order to try to reduce and minimise resistance.  Loudspeaker voice coils  unfortunately work in the opposite way: as the temperature increases, the resistance also increases.

A modern state of the art voice coil is designed to withstand extremely high temperatures, often operating at up to 3000C or more when driven at full power. 0.4% may sound insignificant, but remember this is per °C – at only 2300C the voice coil DC resistance has almost doubled which causes the voice coil impedance to increase accordingly. Some simple maths and you can quickly see that the increase in temperature  can make your 8 ohm speaker start behaving more like a 16 ohm speaker.

So after setting your sound system carefully at the start of the night, an hour in, and it doesn’t sound as loud – you might wonder whats going on. Two things: firstly, your ears have a self defence mechanism: there are 2 tiny muscles in the middle ear that will contract when the ear is exposed to loud sounds. This contraction will reduce the loudness of the sounds reaching the inner ear, thereby protecting the inner ear against exposure to loud noises. This isn’t power compression, but it’s something to be aware of, as you may well be tempted to turn up the volume, I know from experience that a typical DJ will certainly try this, and end up running his mixer into overdrive in the attempt to get more volume.

The second factor is power compression, a typical loudspeaker can lose 3-6 dB of volume once power compression kicks in.

You could think of power compression a bit like the aerodynamics of driving a car. When you start moving, a certain level of power from your engine sets you hurtling forwards at high speed, but as you go faster, wind resistance increases, so you stop accelerating. You need to apply more power to increase speed, but wind resistance keeps increasing too, so you have to apply even more power.

If your amplifiers have headroom, your instincts will make you want to turn them up, to restore the original volume level. To some extent this will work, if you’re familiar with the maths, you’ll see whats going on. Your 8 ohm speaker at room temperature happily accepts 1000W from your amplifier, and gradually reaches an operating temperature of say 250°C. Your resistance has doubled, and your ‘new’ 16 ohm speaker will probably only be receiving around 500W from your amplifier. In a way, as the speaker reaches temperature, it ‘protects itself’ by reducing the power it is operating at, stopping it getting any hotter. If it were to cool a little, the power would increase again, causing it to heat up.

Lets suppose you turn the gain up on your amplifiers, determined to try to push 1000W through your speakers. As you apply more power, you will generate more heat,  perhaps reaching 350°C or more, with your speakers resistance continuing to increase to perhaps 20 or more ohms. Essentially you are fighting a losing battle, as you turn the gain up, the speaker fights back with a higher resistance. You will eventually reach a limit, either your amp will run out of headroom and you cant turn it any louder, or the other possibility, which happens all too often, is your speaker will overheat, and burn out causing catastrophic failure.

Now you know about power compression and the fact that speaker resistance increases with heat, you’ll probably realise that you actually have to push a speaker very hard in order to cause it fail – so if your speaker suddenly fails and you smell burning, the only person to blame is YOU, as you now know better than to try to fight power compression by applying more power.

Now consider what effect power compression will have. 3-6dB loss at full operating power is almost like switching off half your PA system. To achieve the same consistent volume you will need twice as many speakers!

What’s the solution? Either buy speakers with headroom, e.g. if you want to operate at around 500-600W, you might want to consider purchasing speakers rated at 800W or more. At 75% of rated power, the effects of power compression should be much less significant. Also, try to select speakers with improved cooling technology, that suffer less from power compression. Avoiding power compression could make your speakers twice as loud, meaning you could take half as many to the gig!

There are other side effects from the increased levels of heat in a speaker, T/S parameters can vary, bass can sound boomy and mid frequencies can sound muffled. For the best sound quality, its best to try to  minimise power compression effects,

 

 

Pe – Power Handling Capacity

Pe represents the thermal power handling capacity of a speaker driver, measured in watts (W). It indicates how much continuous power the voice coil can handle without overheating or suffering permanent damage. The test is done in a controlled environment with specific cabinet volume and controlled room temperature. The test environment may not be the same as your speaker design, for instance some manufacturers conduct their power tests for 18″ woofers in a very large cabinet (900 litres) which could be 6-8 times the size of your cabinet. This has a different volume of air, which can affect heat dissipation. Very small chambers in cabinets can adversely affect the power handling and make it much lower in real life than the manufacturers specifications

Power handling is not the same as loudness—a higher Pe rating doesn’t necessarily mean a louder speaker, as efficiency (η₀) and sensitivity (SPL @ 1W/1m) also play key roles. Many manufacturers rate Pe using AES, RMS, or program power standards, which define how power limits are tested. Manufacturers sometimes use slightly different parameters for their power calculations, such as whether they use minimum impedance, average impedance or nominal impedance to determine the power, which can distort results. Its worth checking this out in critical applications

Power Handling vs. Loudness – Why More Watts Doesn’t Always Mean More SPL

A higher power handling (Pe) doesn’t automatically mean a louder speaker—it only tells you how much power the driver can withstand before thermal failure. The actual loudness (SPL) depends on both efficiency (η₀) and sensitivity (SPL @ 1W/1m).

For example, consider two 18″ woofers:

  • Woofer A: η₀ = 3%, 500W Pe
  • Woofer B: η₀ = 1.5%, 1000W Pe

Even though Woofer B can handle twice the power, it has half the efficiency, meaning it produces the same SPL (or less) at full power as Woofer A does at half the power.

This is why efficient PA speakers can often achieve the same or greater loudness with less amplifier power, reducing thermal stress and power compression. If a speaker is inefficient, throwing more watts at it only results in more heat, not necessarily more sound.

The graph below illustrates the difference between high and low efficiency woofers, comparing the worst case (0.5% efficiency) you would need 2000W to reach to the SPL of a very efficient woofer (4% efficiency) operating at 250W. That’s a lot of extra power and heat to deal with.

For more info on power ratings, including AES vs. RMS vs. Peak Power, check out this article:
What’s Up With the Watts?